Domaine Bonneau du Martray is recognized as one of the world’s great wine estates and a reference point for its appellation. It is the sole estate in Burgundy to produce only Grand Cru wines with the further advantage of holding the single largest contiguous parcel in Corton-Charlemagne. The current winemaker and proprietor, Jean-Charles le Bault de la Moriniere whose family is only the third set of owners in over twelve centuries, calls his wine the product of light rather than heat . The vineyard’s unique west and south west aspect significantly increases the exposure of light on the vines, without running the risk of excessive heat. The estate’s 11.09 hectare holdings, the largest in the appellation, are in contiguous parcels in the heart of the Charlemagne ‘climat’ - 6.57 hectares within commune of Aloxe-Corton and 4.52 in Pernand-Vergelesses. There are 15 parcels totaling 9.5 hectares of Chardonnay which produce Corton-Charlemagne and a single parcel of 1.5 hectares of Pinot Noir from which small quantities of Corton Rouge are made. Each parcel is vinified separately and offers unique qualities to the final assemblage. The soils range from limestone, marl and clay on the upper slope, imparting a floral elegance to the wines, to limestone with iron topsoil below which lend body and ripeness. For many, Domaine Bonneau du Martray is Corton-Charlemagne – one of the very greatest of all Grand Cru white Burgundies, synonymous with a style that combines elegant reserve with remarkable balance, concentration and purity.
Robert ParkerThe 2014 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, which was still on the less when I tasted it at the domaine, has a crisp, fresh oyster shell-tinged bouquet that opens nicely with aeration. It is just a little austere, not that is detracts from its pleasure. The palate is fresh on the entry with a crisp line of acidity; perhaps a little more austere than other vintages, but that allows the terroir to show through. There is a lovely touch of lemongrass on the finish that prolongs length, completing a fine, quite saline, intriguing contribution to the vintage.