Appellation AmericaIrony was originally conceived of as a Napa Valley brand by Chris and Jay Indelicato of Delicato Family Vineyards, now known as DFV Wines. (The name “Irony” has to do with the fact that the brothers worked for a time outside the family business but have returned to it; Chris, in fact, is CEO of DFV.) They branched out from Napa to find more suitable places for Pinot Noir. And what better place than Monterey County, where the family owns the immense San Bernabe Vineyard, which has its own AVA? San Bernabe, where there are seven blocks of Pinot, each with different soils, rootstocks, clones and trellises, is the main fruit source for this wine. At $16, this is a very attractively priced Pinot Noir, especially considering the quality. The wine is bright and fruity up front, with raspberry and rhubarb flavors. There’s a nice purity to the fruit, and then the tannins firm up toward the finish. The wine was aged for nine months in French and American oak barrels, both new and used, and the oak isn’t at all intrusive - rather, it gives the wine a nice roundness and a little spice. Try it with grilled salmon or roast chicken.