Appellation AmericaEstancia, which began as an Alexander Valley label founded by Agustin Huneeus, is now part of Constellation’s Icon Estates portfolio and is focused on vineyards in Monterey (for cool-climate grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) and Paso Robles (for the warmer-weather grapes). The winery planted nearly 700 acres of grapes in 1999 at its Keyes Canyon Vineyard on the east side of Paso Robles; Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, but there’s also Merlot, Petit Verdot, Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah.That vineyard is the source for this Bordeaux-style blend of 61 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Merlot and 9 percent Petit Verdot. The wine, which sells for $33, spends 18 months in French and American oak barrels, about half of them new. It’s a big, concentrated Meritage, with dark cherry and cassis fruit, some nice spice and a hint of mocha. There’s a long finish marked by firm but approachable tannins. You could easily cellar this Meritage for a few years, but it’s delicious now with something hearty, like a grilled steak, pot roast or even a juicy cheeseburger.