The bouquet spirals through a light-filled, floral softness to the gritty minerality that epitomises Dom Perignon, evocative of candied fruit, plant life and exquisite camphor leaf freshness, and finally plunges into darkness, spices and licorice root. On the palate, the wine still has a physical presence. It is striking and demading, tactile and vibrant rather than aromatic. It is built on rhythm and rupture more than harmony. After an initial cloud of stofness, we hit a mineralised verticality that gradually opens out to suggest a bitter, iodised and saline nobility.
Wine Spectator(2006 Vintage) A graceful, minerally version, featuring rich notes of smoke, mandarin orange peel and chalk that lead to subtle accents of creme de cassis, toasted almond, espresso and star anise on the fine, creamy mousse. Seamlessly knit, with citrusy acidity leaving a mouthwatering impression on the finish. Drink now through 2031. From France.-A.N.