The 2006 Les Baux de Provence combines 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Carignan, 20% Grenache, and 9% Syrah. Carignan has seldom, if ever, approached so large a percentage, but its old vines manage to withstand the ongoing local drought. Cassis, blackberry, Provencal herbs, and wood smoke in the nose lead to a correspondingly pungent, ripe and particularly bright palate and a penetrating finish redolent of resinous lavender and rosemary and faintly bitter black fruits. This impressively concentrated rendition of Gourgonnier - only 13% in alcohol, interestingly - is slightly rustic in its tannins but will prove exceptionally versatile at table. Typically, the wine is at its best for 2-4 years although it will often hold longer.