This superb Russian River winery is run by a dedicated Burgundy aficionado, Stephen Hansel, whose goal is to produce Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from his Russian River vineyards. With more than 80 acres under vine, and an outstanding track record dating back to 1978, Hansel has not let success go to his head as prices remain reasonable. The medium to full-bodied 2004 Pinot Noir Cahill Lanersquo;s dark ruby color is accompanied by sweet aromas of plums, pomegranates, and flowers, a savory mid-palate, and loads of glycerin and intensity. It should drink beautifully for 8ndash;10 years.

Rating for United States-California: 90 (slightly better than average year)<br/><br/>Drinkability: unpredictable<br/>