Although on the shy side in the nose with subdued themes of fresh grass and wildflowers overlying a touch of lemony fruit, this wine surprises with fairly juicy, ripe melon flavors and shows good weight on the palate. Like so many of its vintage cousins, it comes with a few ragged finishing edges, but given four to six months of patience, it should round out a bit and smooth into fine drinking form.

weighty fume. much melon and grass with little grapefruit

A bit closed, more citrus and light than rich fruits

From Sunset. $13 at TJ