Sicily's finest Nero d'Avola-based wines? Over the past four years they have been made by the Morgante family at Grotte, near Agrigento, with the inspired assistance of Riccardo Cotarella, and this year as well they appear to have something which gives them that extra margin of distinction. The 2002 Nero d'Avola is truly surpristing for its vintage, with ripe and sweet black cherry and raspberry aromas, fragrant floral notes, and round, supple flavors with melting tannins on the close. Drink: 2004-2008.