"The Mortet 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques invokes ripe, bitter-sweet mulberry wreathed in wood smoke, its low-toned suggestions of roasted, charred meats and wet stone making for a deep if somewhat austere impression. The finesse of the tannins here is noteworthy and the palate-staining finish entices and intrigues you into the next sip without a moment's pause to remove any tiny splinters or assuage finishing roughness. In fact, the personality of this Lavaux is remarkably similar to...