Seemingly cut from different cloth, and oft-times our favorite of Ravenswood's wines, the Old Hill Ranch Zinfandels are typically tougher, more firmly balanced and come with a veneer of dusty earth spice. In this outing, the toughness is plain, but the wine's fruit is understated, and, while teasing with glimmers of rich-ness along the way, the wine is an exercise in forbearance at a price that makes us question the risk.

Deep ruby. Explosively perfumed nose offers energetic raspberry and wild strawberry aromas lifted by exotic floral and mineral tones. Vibrant, palate-staining red berry flavors display remarkable intensity and depth, with a fine-grained, silky texture. I know there are tannins here but they're completely hidden. Seductive, penetrating and brilliantly focused, with a finish that refuses to let up.

Rating for United States-California: 78 (bad year)<br/><br/>Drinkability: unpredictable<br/>