"Assembled from numerous parcels and only discretely sweet (even if surprisingly high in residual sugar), the Chidaine 2005 Montlouis Les Tuffeaux is a marvel and the most youthfully expressive wine in Chidaine’s current collection. With an ethereal aroma that alone is worth the price of a bottle, this fills the nostrils and imagination with myriad flowers, pit fruits, citrus, tropical fruits. Waxy rather than creamy in texture, and almost nobly rich in its honeyed way, with effusive ripe quince,...