When we last spoke, spice and perfume merchants were haggling over lavender oil, rose petals and sandalwood while sipping dry rosé at a sidewalk café in Grasse, deep in the heart of Provence. And why would they not sip rosé, a potation which so strongly evokes the invigorating fragrance of wild aromatic herbs and botanicals common to the south of France? The 2004 Vin Gris is not the pudgy, alcoholic endomorph one might expect from such a hot, early year. In fact, the acid is a bit more pronou...