In contrast to the wines directly above in this list of exquisite Champagnes, this one is decidedly on the austere, citrusy side of the equation and gets its points for finesse and for its precise rendering of the quietly toasty, crisp Blanc de Blancs style. Its bubbles are delightfully pinpointy in size, and the richness and well-mannered complexity of its flavors are bound to please.

Light yellow. Stony peach and pear aromas are complicated by smoked meat and Asian spices. Round and filled in, with admirably deep pit fruit flavors, a pliant texture and a fresh mineral kick on the finish. Leaves a strong pear impression on the palate and an echo of minerals.

Rating for France-Champagne: 86 (slightly worse than average year)<br/><br/>Drinkability: quite possibly over the hill<br/>

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