There is a tender spot in my heart for pink wine. (This is spoken by a man who is very secure with respect to his gender issues.) As a genus, pink wine is seldom taken seriously and yet vin en rose is capable of offering among the most blissful moments that a mere alcoholic beverage can provide. Producing a great pink wine is generally a thankless task, it must be said. When it works, people are pleased but generally remain mute. When it is less than brilliant, punters' rosaphobic prejudices are ...