One of the eno-existential errands at which we can shine like the fight of a thousand suns is our unprecedented ability to ripen Sangiovese grapes to a sublimely exquisite and decadent level without simultaneously creating oceanic volumes of so much prunejuice. At least the stuff that emerges from the relatively cool, long growing season of southern Monterey County, possesses a wonderfully vibrant fruitiness, a lively acidity, in sum, a rambunctious not of raspberry and more red fruits than are d...