One first observes this wine as through a glass darkly and more likely than not will consume this dun and brooding wine in complete and utter silence, the winter light streaming through the unshuttered window. As searingly severe as Madiran is often made to seem, this (comparatively) light-hearted rendition of the classic appellation might easily provoke smiles if consumed upon a summer night. Taking out one's sommelier corkscrew and removing the seventh seal and cork, one might espy a dark and...