Beychevelle, always known as a very smooth and delicate wine, has become richer and more muscular in recent decades. Incorporating a larger proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, a longer cuvaison, more new oak for barrel aging, and the option of a second label for lighter wines have all resulted in a better constructed, more concentrated style of St. Julien. These changes have not meant a sacrifice of charm or finesse, however. Even in top years, Château Beychevelle is uncommonly smooth,...